Bariloche On top of the world!!

I roll into Bariloche and its got a pretty weird vibe to it. I thought I was in Argentina? It seems I have been transported via 21 hr bus ride to Switzerland. The City Centro is very quaint with the buildings made of log and stone. There are Saint Bernards runnin around everywhere for the way too many tourists to snap photos of. A chocolatier on every corner and 2 more in between makes this a fat kids paradise! Then there is the deep blue lake with the backdrop of picturesque mountains. It is quite amazing. I walk around the city for a bit and after a bit grow tired from the bus ride. I take a small nap back at the hostel then jump on the internet. I overhear a guy talking of a day trek hes looking to do and I jump in and tell him Im lookin to do the same. The blokes name is Willy and hes from England. We chat for a bit then head out to get provisions for the hike and decide to cook up some steaks for dinner. After a bottle of wine and a few beers at the local boozer I head off to sleep for the alarm will ring at 7. Its 3 AM!! I think the sun went down an hour ago...7 am comes EARLY...not that oh I got to go to work its early early...I mean the I just went to sleep leave me the hell alone early. I kinda hurt but damnit I really cant take another day in town. I get up and we make some eggs and sandwiches and get ready to roll out. We grab one of the two buses that head out to the trail head. The return bus is only at 5 45 or 8 10. We were told it would be 5 hrs up and 2 hrs down to The Refugio Lopez so we plan on makin the 5 45. We get there and notice the sign says 4 hrs. Sweet a nice easy pace and we will be kosher. We start walkin up the trail and come to a kinda dead end..Then we look up..Is that the trail?? We start going up. Then up some more and up some more. Loose rocks, sand and flies the size of volkswagens make the thought of the way down horrifying. We keep pluggin along without a break because said flies like to bite...Hard! Bastards!! Waving my hat to shoo them away for a second before they come back buzzing. We were walking about an hour when we see the refugio up on top of the hill. It looks crazy bein way up there in the middle of nowhere. We keep trekking and make it there in just under 2 hours. Now I dont think Willy and I are world class athletes but 2 hrs ahead of time seems quite odd. So we sit there have lunch and talk of how the bus will arrive in apprx 7 hrs. I suggest we continue on and Willys a bit tired but is game. We will just go for a little more. We take a look at the trail up and its steep. It looks scary but we decide to go for it. We get to climbing..No longer are we walking or trekking we are climbing stone through waterfalls and snow. We run along 2 Isralea girls and they say its 2 hrs to the summit. I dunno if we have enough time to get the bus. We then ask them how long it took them to get to the refugio and they reply with to our amusement 4 hrs. Shit we got this!! We get to climbin and scramblin up rock faces and cliffs. If my mom woulda saw me she would freaked out. We make it to the snowline and we are thinkin we are almost there so we start climbin quicker. We´ll make it in 45 min we think. Then there's another peak behind the one we´ve been climbing. We keep going pulling ourselves up the rock. Damnit there is another peak. We got plenty of time for the bus as Willy keeps me updated on the time every 20 min. We then run across some friendly Argentines who are on their descent and they tell us to cross a road of snow then up a quick climb and we are there. We have 3hrs 25min before the bus. The whole way up the path was marked with distinct arrows in red paint. When we made it across the snow road there was a line...not an arrow not a pointer just a line going across. So I tell Willy and we make a decision to go to the right. A rocky, jagged cliff face that immediately says...Don´t go this way! Of course we do. Willys leadin the way and all I hear is Be careful here loose rock kinda scary! We warned each other back and forth the whole way up of certain dangers. I get goin and my fear of heights all of a sudden jumps into action. The rock is loose...we are hanging off the side of a mountain and all you see around is blue sky, lake and trees miles down. It felt like I was going to fall all the way down to sea level even though the ground was only 200 ft down. Falling definitely meant you wouldn't be making it back for supper...ever! This sucks says Willy...Fuck I say!! What the hell are we doing...Then Willy breaks out onto the summit and is like get over the hump and you made it... A couple more steps and I break the summit and its the most amazing view I have ever seen. I dunno if it was that I almost died 3 min ago or what but it was frickin awesome. Willys screamin out and Im just smilin...a big high 5 and its all good. We decide to take a few quick snaps and head back down...Bus in 3 hours. We start headin down and forget all about the arrows. I mean its the way down right. Thinking the hardest part is over we carry on walking down the mountain. Next thing we know we are going down 85 degree rock without foot holes. Just our upper body holding us up. Were on the side of rock squeaking by narrow passages between rock and snow that looks like it would eat you alive. Dying of thirst I take a nice long drink from the mountain stream praying I wouldnt regret the decision later. After plenty more cursing, some slipping and lots of rocks tumbling we make it back to the refugio 1 50 until the bus. We grab a quick drink and start heading down the jeep path Willy thinking we have plenty of time. I feel we should start taking shortcuts and start taking paths that cut through the switchbacks. We then run into the Argentines that we met at the top of the mountain and started walking with them..Now walking and chatting Im thinking we´re never going to make it. Then they say...Hey were taking a shortcut...It was kinda the same path we took up..Lots of loose dirt and rocks and this guy Fransico and I decide to bomb the hill. We gotta make the bus cause I dont wanna sit around until 8 waitin for the next. We start running down fast! We are haulin ass down this mountain over roots and drops...huge rocks and cliffs are also a challenge. Laughing our asses off and the occasional Holy Shit or I almost died there were all that was really said but we made it down in a bout 15 min. 20 min till the bus. I grab a couple beers at the cafe at the bottom and we soak our feet in the water. Where the hell is Willy. I get half my beer down and Willy comes around the corner. 7 min he says. We cruise out just in time to grab the bus and make it back to the hostel. I go out and treat myself to a nice trout dinner and head to bed early. Today I just relaxed and kicked it around town. Gotta plan something for tomorrow!

21 hr bustrip...Heaven or Hell??

On Sunday I got on a bus from Buenos Aires to Bariloche. The trip would take a total of 21 hours and I was quite nervous that I would go stir crazy. I was told by many that the buses in Argentina were very nice and quite comfortable. I sprung for the executive cama (bed) which was a humongous bus seat that reclined to 160 degrees. It was as they say...quite comfortable. We headed out of Buenos Aires and into the pampas lands. Nothing but green grass and cows grazing. Here unlike the U.S. they feed their cows grass instead of corn. Quite novel actually. After cruising a little bit the movie Fracture with Sir Anthony Hopkins came on with spanish subtitles. Then a light lunch of Croissants with jamon y queso was served. So simple yet blew away any meal I ever had on an airplane. After a bit of reading and a self taught spanish class the movie 2012 came on. I watched about 10 minutes and said to myself...this may be the stupidest movie ever made and drifted into a nice nap. I woke up an hour later and watched about 20 min of 2012 and said...this is the stupidest movie ever made!!! I threw on my Ipod and after a little while the sun set. A super Orange sun with a purple sky set the night off. I then had the urge to use the facilities so I go downstairs and the light reads Occupado. So I sit on the steps waiting to use the lavatory. I was looking out the window and this girl says something to me in spanish..I say hablas poquito espanol and she speaks to me in broken english we chat for a bit and the bathroom is still occupado. Finally the stu comes and tells the girl they lock the bano for dinner service. So I return to my quarters and am treated to roasted turkey and butternut squash. It was a little weird I was diggin the croissants much better. After dinner I wait a bit and make it back to the bano. ALAS!!! It is Libre (vacant) Im in there maybe 30 seconds and their is a pound on the door 3 times BOOM BOOM BOOM!!! I almost pissed on myself. Tranquillo I yell out. I exit the bathroom and see my stu friend who scolded me earlier for my feet being in the aisle talking to the girl i was chatting with earlier. I sit next to her and ask her what that was all about. Turns out Im not allowed to smoke in the bathroom. After telling her I dont smoke we were chatting for a bit...me in shitty spanish her in slightly better english this guy in the seat behind me erupts loudly in spanish and rips his jacket off my seat back where he had it hanging. It seems like everyone is pissed at the gringo but Minla the girl informs me that guy is muy loco and not to worry about it. We chat for a bit more and I go up to my seat. I read listen to music and drift off into the best sleep in 5 days. I awake in the National Park right outside Bariloche and its Beautiful. I feel more relaxed then I was in the city. Something about mountains rivers and big sky that put me at ease. I get off the bus exchange info with Minla..which I have lost already and wonder to myself if I can change in my flight back to Baltimore for a bus!

Off to Patagonia

Well I made it 2 days in Buenos Aires and it is an amazing city. Beautiful architecture and people make walking the streets very relaxing. After the party in Costa Rica I feel I need some time to relax, take it easy and get healthy again. Buenos Aires is seeming like a big party. I accidently checked into a busy party hostel with no a.c. It is hot as shit in the room and sleeping has been tough. I decided yesterday that I would start my trip in Patagonia. I will relax, hike, go to the lakes and try some fishing. I will then finish my trip in B.A. when Im ready to have a couple cocktails and hang out a little later then 10 o clock. I am heading to the bus station right now for a 20 hr trip. I went to this amazing bakery and got a few pasteries and a sandwich. My seat on the bus reclines to 160 degrees. Im hopin to get some rest and see some amazing scenery.

Montesuma and OUT!!!!

...to all my Costa Rican friends this is just my opinion...
After the weeklong party that kicked the crap out of us. Dusty and I decided to cruise over to Montesuma. A small beach town, with a hippiesh culture. Very laid back, beautiful turquoise water and chicks everywhere. We met a couple girls from Argentina on the boat ride over. We exchanged info and may meet back up a little later down the road. I started catching a cold which I am sure is from the partying that insued. It was a very chill time, we hiked to a waterfall that was about 60 ft and I was going to jump off but the FEAR crept in and hindered my jumping ability. Dusty jumped a few times. I was starting to grow tired of Costa Rica. The cuisine is just not what I thought it would be. We ate at 3 good restaurants the entire time. For a country whos staples should be Rice, Beans, Ceviche, Dorado, Fresh Fruits and so on. Why the FUCK is everyone selling Hamburgers, Pizza, Sushi and everything except some typico Costa Rican fare. I believe Pura Vida means put the money in my hand. The country is overpopulated with tourists and evryone is trying to make money off it. I wish I could have seen Costa ten years ago because I think it would have been something special, but all I see is America in a less fortunate country. I decided to change my flight plans to Buenos Aires a week early and start my journey across Argentina. My cold is still here I have been coughing alot and I hope it leaves soon. I have my hostel booked in BA and am ready to go. Bye Bye Costa!

Party Time!!!

I arrived in San Jose last week sometime and after a much needed night sleep went to the airport to pick up Dusty. We cruised to Jimmy T's house, Dustins buddy who lives in Costa. Real cool guy and we had many beverages and dinner. We we're then picked up the following day by Jeff and the rest of the wedding party in a big ass bus. A party it was. It was noon and everyone was partyin, the next thing I knew we were in the bus...drinkin beers and rum and havin a great time. We got to the house and it was amazing. F'n HUGE!!! it looks like an 80's druglords house and the view is really hard to get sick of. That day was a party. Swimming, drinking and all other types of debauchery. The next day we rolled down beachside and did some body surfin and had some really tasty ceviche from some vendors on the beach, the beers and coctails were flowing by 1 and another late night party ensued. Hey! When in a drug lords house do as the drug lords do!! The next day we went on a jungle walk and ended up getting into some shit when we tried climbing over the se slippery ass rocks trying to find a trail. We climbed for about an hour and finally found the trail head. We were thinkin we might be campin the night with the howler monkeys. We made it out and the trail ended at a beach where a guy was selling beer...Ok Why not..I had 1 and then took the night off from drinkin. The ext day to everyones delight Dusty and I cooked dinner and just relaxed it was quite tasty..we got mad props from everyone. Lots of Shopping and cooking for the wedding took up the next couple days and the wedding was really cool. Laid back, chill Mike was the m.c. and married them. He did a great job and kept it light and cool. The party got a little out of hand after and I believe I drank a bottle of Tequilla myself...So today its poolside and a nap..Someone call Betty Ford!!!

Hard Turns, Crazy Bumps and Too Much throw Up!

Woke up early this morning so I could go check out the market in Puerto Escondido. I had heard great things and was pretty excited. I also needed to hit an ATM to pay for the Hostle. I made it to the market and the produce was amazing. Fruits and vegetables all in their prime and some amazing looking bunches of herbs. I strolled around for a bit snapping pics and then cruised back to the hostel. My bill was a little more than expected. I need to leave Mexico soon or get an accountant to keep track of my Mezcal intake. After the shock wore off I headed to the Servicio Express..The last bud I took was first class and it took 10 hrs. The Servicio was half the price and half the time...SCORE!!!! We get on and its a descent lookin bus... I mean hell its a Mercedes...I was a little nervous of the non bathroom option but I figured dont eat anything drastic and keep the water to a minimum. Also when I read about the bus on a review they said if you have motion sickness to avoid it...I thought nothing of this...I mean I worked on a couple yachts Im fine. Sooooo off we go. 6 hours to Oaxaca and Im kinda pissed cause my spanish sucks so bad I cant communicate with people. I really need to work on this. So were about 20 minutes into the trip and already in hardcore mountians. Back and forth your body is tossed after we hit switchback after switch back. The brakes are slammed on to avoid potholes the size of bathtubs. All the while looking out my window straight down into a valley some 10,000 feet below. I throw on some Pearl Jam so I can sing along and not think about anything...Suddenly I look forward and there is throw up all over the floor..I naturally say..In English "Oh NOOO!!!" I turn down Eddie and hear from behind me wretching...Im thinkin as my cousin Tim said....Domino Effect! I know Ill be fine as long as it dosent smell like puke. Which somehow Thank the lord it never did...Another hour goes by and soon the poor little mexican girl with the black pony tail couldnt handle it anymore and threw up again...10 minutes later the girl diagonal from me...burying her nose in her sweatshirt calls out to her mom for a baggie and proceedes to fill it up. The bus driver has had it and im thinking...Oh shit hes gonna drive this bus right over the edge! We all die here...We stop in this small town which is really only a street in the mountains to use the bathroom and the driver makes the little girls dad clean the bus. We finally make it to the city and I just wanna get to the Hostel and put my bag down and grab some food. Well I get off the bus and step into a festival of people. People are everwhere and there are booths and people screaming shit over megaphones and I have no clue where im at...Just in this maze 40 minutes later I recognize some street signs and make it to my home for the eve. I then went back to the maze and ate and ate and ate...and never once did I throw up!!!

Side Trip to Puerto Escondido

After hangin out in Oaxaca City for a few days I kinda got the itch to get out of town. I had heard many great things about Escondido and decided What the Hell and booked an overnight bus to the beach. I mean what a great idea the bus leaves at 11 and arrives at 9 am. So I devised my plan...Have a few beers (a few is around 7 or 8 these days) grab a bottle of mezcal and a half a xanax and I will be out like a light. Itll be perfect waking up fully refreshed and ready to face the day. Well leaving town we stopped every 50 ft for a speed bump...everytime the bus slowed down i woke up...then around 2 in the am we hit the mountains...switchbacks upon switchbacks I couldnt keep still...i finally did get a little rest though and pulled into the Puerto at 9. It was beautiful. Small quaint town with a beautiful beach. I checked into my Hostle which was very nice...Like a little tropical paradise with palm trees and little huts for rooms $10 a night. I then set out for the beach and relaxed and drifted off to sleep. I returned to the Hostle where they have a bar and a girl named Kelly who is the hostle cook was making some shrimp stuffed chili rellenos. I gave her a few suggestions on cooking em and she was grateful. Lots of Mezcal that night..was hangin with two guys on holiday from university in Switzerland. They left the following morning and I headed out to Carrazillio Beach. Im walking and walking lookin for the playa and finally come up to this cove with the most beautiful beach Ive ever seen. This huge semicircle wall of rock with crystal clear water. I sat there for 4 hrs, met a cute little mexican girl and 2 people from Seattle. They{re gonna go check out The Table when they get home. Back to the hostel and it was all gringos...and they all knew the owner so it was more like a frat party in West Palm then chillin in Mexico. I was a little annoyed so went to sleep early. The next day I leave back to the city.

Oaxaca

Happy New Year! It is now 2010 and I am chillin at the Hostle El Quijote in Oaxaca, Mexico. A very vibrant and busy city. I was a little overwhelemed flying in and checking into the hostle. But I went out the doors and headed to the market. It was amazing. Fresh Breads and Vegetables everywhere. Many different kiosks of people selling all kinds of food from frijoladas, tacos, empenadas and a whole bunch more I cant even think of right now. I then went to the city center, the tourist area with concerts and street performers and alot of restaurants. I looked around awhile and felt very alone in such a big place. I know what will cure that I thought...A few beers!! I sat and had a couple and watched the people go by. I relaxed and felt a little better. I then retired to my home in oaxaca and slept for the night. I then woke up and met a few people and planned to meet for beers later on. After seeing the city in daylight and taking many photos I met up with Greg and we headed to the cantina. We had a few beers then headed to another. We drank and drank our way till midnight. Mucho cervesas and Mezcal were had. After the ball dropped we headed to this rock bar where a mexicali cover band played everything fronm Billy Idol to Metallica to System of a Down. Thrown in with some Mexican Ska which really got the crowd going. It was a great evening. Probably the best New Years in a long while.
Oh Yeah...The Moles and Chocolate in this town are BOMB!!!!

Travel Woes

I have learned two important things about traveling already. When in a super busy town and you want to take a bus out of there you need to book your ticket in advance. You can just show up at 9 45 for the 10 10 bus without a ticket, it just doesn^t work. Also after returning to the hotel from said missed bus trip, and you are knocking back a couple of beers to go along with the tequilla shots and half a xanax you ate for the bus ride, now is not the time to book your flight. You might just learn that you booked it for the next day when you were planing the day after. Oh well we live and learn!