Wednesday, February 17, 2010
Cerro Fitz Roy and El Chalten
So we are off to El Chalten!!! The mountains are steep, jagged giants that play amongst the clouds. The weather changes every 20 min the winds howl up to 80 miles an hr daily and everything remains in place, no telephone poles are blown down the houses are intact, winds that would crumble Florida!! The Patagonia frontier!!! The place I chose to do my first ever 3 night trek into the wilderness. We roll into town and the sky goes from partly cloudy to torrential down pour. We arrive at the hostel and they tell us tomorrow will be a very bad day, and promises that the next day would be better and the day after that great! We decide to just stay at the hostel and delay our trip one day, we go to the store and I buy all kinds of good food you wouldn´t think about taking camping. But there was no way i was spending 3 days in the cold and eating dehydrated meals. We also grabbed a bottle of Jim Beam. The day has arrived and we strap on our packs and head up the mountain. The weather is nice..a few clouds in town but nothing too bad. Jenny and I are moving up the mountain...passing people without packs and just cruisin along when suddenly the clouds start movin in. The next thing I know we are walking thru an open area exposed to the elements. That being A forceful wind blowing rain, sleet and SNOW! WTF! We are getting drenched but the walking is keeping us warm. We finally make it to the camp site which was nestled in the trees and it seemed much calmer. We set up camp...freezing cold and get into out sleeping bags, drink whiskey, eat half the food and play rummy. It wasn´t bad but if I had to do this tomorrow I was going back to the hostel. I fell asleep to the sounds of heavy winds and snow. Around 3 am I woke up from the roots digging into my back and Its silent! I can acct hear the river in the distance. Jenny gets up to use the bano and comes back all excited. You could see every star in the sky, the entire milky way and not a cloud to be seen. We wake up at 5 am and set out to see Fitz Roy, the peaks I have seen in countless pics all around Patagonia. Jenny says it will be ab easy trek and the next thing I know we are climbing a pretty descent mountain covered with ice and snow from the previous evenings activities. We make it to the top right before the sun breaks and watch these magical peaks change colors from a ghostly gray to a deep orange to yellow and back again. I must of snapped 100 pictures and we just sat in awe. The most amazing thing I´ve ever seen. It´s also very cold since we are standing in ankle deep snow! Did I say it was summer?? We cruised back down and chatted with folk on their way up...Sissys couldn't make sunrise! Turns out one guy had camped in the snow and rain for 4 days waiting to see it and with last nights weather he decided not to wake up for sunrise...He was pissed. We got back to camp and had Tortillas with avocado salami and cheese a couple hard boiled eggs and then set off on an 8 hr trek. It took us through a massive boulder field up to a huge glacier then along a river, through a really cool forest up to a refugio overlooked by mountains and waterfalls. We made it back to camp and I was ready to die. A couple shots of whiskey and I crashed out on the roots and slept like crap. We couldnt move the tent because the site was full, the downfalls to camping in a big tourist destination. The next day we moved camp to the base of Cerro Torre. The camp was amazing but the peak was covered in clouds and never came out. We chilled for the day, woke up the next morning and started our descent back to town. I cant wait to take a shower!!!!
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